Saturday, August 29, 2009
Do Wild Boars "Mosey" or Charge?
Thursday, August 27, 2009
Charging off in all Directions at Once
To add to Joanne's wisdom, another rule is never to stuff too much into one day here in Italy. It is simply not possible to get a driver, aim for two mountain fortress towns to the south by two hours (Perugia and Assisi), stop by little lakeside beaches for gelato, shop for shoes, undertake a spiritual journey, eat regularly but with appreciation of the wonderful food and wine, meet up with old friends, discover Etruscan and other beautiful art and architecture, and so on. Needless to say, we made it home still laughing ... and I have acquired a taste for the wild boar dishes of the region. Neighbours reported hearing the wild boar in the grove by their front door here! Here is a picture from our Assisi collection ...
Today we are to be driven -- yes, we have Lorenzo again for the day -- to Venice, via Ferrara which, given the numbers of pairs of shoes we have acquired, is deemed advisable. We are travelling one step at a time here now! Mary will be in Venice by the time we get there.
The adventures for today have begun already. Jan who is a follower of St Frances and St Clare has been protecting the creatures that find their unlucky selves here. This morning she "saved" a black widow that had spent the night amongst her sheets. I believe her ... but saved it for what?
Hope you are all having even half as much fun as we are ... my legs are much better and better in the morning than the evening. Yesterday was only 4.5 kms (with a lot of climbing up the narrowest streets you can imagine). Early morning blogging while overlooking the Tuscan valley in the splendid morning sun must be given over to the inevitable attempt to stuff everything back into suitcases.
Moira
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
Thunder and Lightning
Another adventurous day in Tuscany. Moira is reclining on the couch with her feet up (they are now happy feet) so I am taking over the blog for tonight. Please bear with me.
We were picked up this morning by Beppe and headed off for major shopping. The first stop was a leather outlet mall which featured beautiful purses, gloves and belts. The colours and textures were beautiful and many purchases were carted back to the van. The next stop was heaven for Francesca as she found a major outlet mall. No further comments. After that we drove through the Tuscan country side to Sienna. It is a beautiful medieval village that features an annual horse race through the village. First stop was the Duomo (cathedral) which was extremely elaborate with an exquisite marble floor, a Michaelangelo statue, Bernini chapel and Donetello chapel. Well worth the visit. We purchased the 10 euro pass which also gave us access to the museum and the crypt. Highly recommended. The statuary in the museum dates to the 12th Century and there are places in the floor where you can see down to the original floor level several feet down. The frescos are 800 years old and very beautiful. It is quite a contrast from the cathedral next door. As we emerged, we got caught it a major rainstorm where the thunder was rolling right above us. We found a few doorways to hide in as we made our way down the hill to the Piazza del Campo and then Piazza del Mercato. We stopped into a pizzeria for shelter and a slice of artichoke, pomodoro and funghi pizza and then the rain stopped and we could safely go down to the parking lot and meet up with Beppe again. We were absolutely soaked but happy with the experience. Next stop was San Gimignano, another medieval village known for its many towers. This village was quite wealthy and the local families vied for the tallest and most elegant tower, with the result that there were over 70 towers in the town. Unfortunately the building boom came to an end when the town was devasted by the black plague in 1348. The town is largely preserved in time with narrow alleys, shops and brick houses. We had a wonderful dinner of bruschetta and white vernaccia which is unique to this region. These grapes grow in the tuffa rock fields which retain water and do not require irrigation. We drove back to our "villa" in Petrognano and sampled a bottle of the red with much discussion, hilarity and reviewing of the day. Tomorrow is Assisi to see the church of Santa Maria degli Angeli (Saint Mary of the Angels) which incorporates St. Francis's original church in the newer building, and Perugia. We are enjoying each day's new experiences.
Some travel hints - most days we have a car and driver. This has been a huge advantage over relying on trains/taxis or renting a car. Both options are possible, but with a driver we do not have to stress about routes, parking and we have a completely flexible agenda. Plus the driver provides a lot of insight into the places we are seeing. And the price has been manageable as we are splitting the costs 5 ways.
The restaurants are very good and our meal in San Gimignano tonight cost only 12 euros per person for a large open faced sandwich (Bruschetta) and wine. Find a restaurant that is a block or two off the main drag and serves local food.
Each stop reveals a rich history of the region and people. Do your research before you go and take the time to check the on-site information - guides, audio guides, information panels etc. Otherwise you may miss that Michaelangelo that is right under your nose!
Monday, August 24, 2009
Wild Boars and Other Interesting Escapes
Just before dinner Jan and Joanne wandered off into the winding lanes in the woods but returned rather rapidly, shouting O-blah-dee, o-blah-dah! to scare off the wild boar chasing them. Actually they had decided to walk 1 km to take the garbage out and somehow attracted the attentions of the local fauna. Apparently Jan had just commented on how much she loved the evenings when all the animals came out for a last meal. I take a little licence here ... she likes birds who eat at dusk! This story is true. Although we didn't actually see the boar, Chris and I believe them because they had a very wild-eyed look and red faces from the running and laughing at their lucky escape. I can't imagine how Chris and I would have explained how we lost Jan and Joanne to the local area snorting beast.
Dinner thereafter was a Safeway chicken -- disguised but identified regardless here in Tuscany under the supermarket Coop brand. It goes really well with Valpolicella and Isola d'Oro Nero D'Avola, salad, and the rest of the Foccaccio. Few pictures of this event survive. Now Frances is here ... Chris won the bet as she is home before midnight. We are recapping the events of the day and may make coffee before going to bed early at 12:30 because Beppe is getting us for the outlet mall, Siena, Pisa, Lucca, and points northeast from here.
Moira
Sunday, August 23, 2009
Finally Internet!
We all met up, along with our wonderful personal driver Beppe, at the Santa Maria Novella train station farmacia. Beppe took us on a tour and explained the wonders of Florence. He explained to me that a lavandrie is for washing clothes, not for selling lavender. He took us to the Coop food store where we loaded up and headed into the hills to our farm that overlooks the Arno River but is not too far from The Mall (Gucci, Burberry, Armani, with Prada just down the way) and the lovely quiet hospital that will see me tomorrow. Frances's stories about antiobiotic injections have me just a little worried ... arms don't seem to be the place one might receive such a shot.
As for school libraries, we did some careful consideration of the stock of lovely books about Renaissance art ... but were a little concerned about the absence of fig leaves here in Florence. Oh, and I got lost in the Uffizi. Seems the other four ditched me ... so I went out for gelato and Birkenstocks.
Alive and planning to be well soon.
Moira
Saturday, August 22, 2009
Staggering Rome!
Tourism is amazing -- we waited quietly at the back of the small baroque Santa Marian della Vittoria church with our group's small children being very well behaved as we had found ourselves attending a small funeral which reminded us that life goes on as usual for the congregation of these small but magnficent churches full of treasures of art. We saw obelisks, statues by Bernini, the Pantheon, and more ... then left the bus for our coffee break and a quick walk through the back alleys and small streets of medieval Cientro, the centre of Rome, as we headed into the Castel Sant'Angelo where the book puts the assassin and the undaunted Robert Langdon in direct conflict. Nice group and interesting tour ... but Mike, the young Italian American tour guide who had grown up in Rome, could have done with a lesson I often gave grade 8s which is to avoid plot summary! We were, after all, really there for the history, but his keen and youthful enthusiasm for the plot more than captured our interest and, although most of us had read the book or seen the movie already, we were soon keen to hear his running interpretation. But it was fun. Several group members had disappeared before the Castel Sant'Angelo as the tour was long, the climb an added challenge, and it had been billed as a three-hour (not five-hour) tour. We were hungry but late now for our much coveted 3 pm booking across the other side of town.
The challenge to get to the Villa Borghese -- no, the Galleria Borghese -- was by now easy for us. Metro from Castel Sant'Angelo, attached by wall disguised as aqueduct to the Vatican, as you will know if you have read the book, back to Piazza del Populo but that's only to the Villa Borghese which is quite different from Galleria -- essentially you would be on quite different sides of say Stanley Park. We were late for our 3 pm appointment but managed to get the headsets on and head into the galleria for 1.5 hours of the two you usually get of wandering through amazing statuary like Bernini's Appollo and Daphne, or the statue of the pale Pauline upon her divan -- she was Napoleon's sister who married a very wealthy Borghese, a connection that saw many of the Italian family's art treasures purchased at great cost to Italy and to the family Borghese moved to Paris, or so we were told. Perhaps the most interesting pieces were the Carravaggios and the Titians in the upstairs collection.
This amazing art gallery experience was included in the options for our Roma Pass ... we have agreed that this pass was an excellent purchase, particularly as it was fully paid for with simply the Colosseo and the Borghese but it also covered all our on/off public transit needs and enabled us to move easily, albeit with significant planning often under Chris's excellent tutelage. We are a truly interdependent group.
We finally resorted to a taxi to take us home, at 3 euros each. Now three pairs of legs are showing signs of the stress of walking -- we did 8 kms on the tour above -- and we hadn't had time to eat as the A&D Tour turned out to be over 5 hours! We loved our cabby who, on finding out we were from Vancouver, began to tell us all the wonderful things he had heard about our town.
I am up earlier than my roomies ... but had collapsed the minute we got home and am convinced it will take everything I've got to stuff all my belongings -- new art, pamphlets, jewellery, etc. -- into the bags before Orlando comes to take us to the train for Florence. And I truly want to sneak around the corner fto the small piazza where I can linger for a caffe latte, an experience which neither Joanne nor Chris appreciate, being tea drinkers! By 6 pm this evening, we will have added Jan and Frances, met Beppe -- our new driver -- and had a few hours to wander the streets of Florence as we wait for their later arrival. I will miss Rome, but the cabby told us that living there for any length of time would expose us pretty quickly to the problems of taxes, government, etc. .... we didn't tell him that he would find things the same and I am reading headlines that suggest our "government" is again delivering more bad economic news in BC -- was it billions I was reading about? One needs holidays to escape these realities.
My roomies will be blogging soon. There is really so very little time! I'm off to pack or I'll have no sneaking out for coffee time!
Moira
Friday, August 21, 2009
Vatican Treasures
Too Busy Walking to Blog!
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
To Padua We Go ...
Flights were fine, although I didn't sleep for the 13 hours of travel, and we almost missed the flight out of Montreal when we were misdirected to the wrong end of Trudeau airport. Fabio picked us up at the Fiumicino airport in his Mercedes and dropped us off at the end of our very narrow cobbled street. Our little apartamente in Trastevere (VRBO casadidaniela) is truly perfect. We have lots of space, air conditioning, lovely shutters that allow us to peek out to the quiet mornings and the very busy evenings when you live atop a bar and a pizzeria. Double paned windows make for absolute quiet. And we are just around one corner from a lovely little local cafe for my morning cafe lattes and another for the compulsory first gelati of the day.
Everything about Rome is truly amazing. I am, after two days, along with Chris and her friend (my new friend) Joanne, wholly adjusted to the Roman pace of life. That seems to be very busy and engaged, from noon to midnight! Here is a fashion prediction for the Fall ...
Here's what they are reading here in Rome because we know you need to know that ...
On our first day we tried to adjust to the pace of life here in Trastevere. There were no coffee shops or cafes open until noon and we were exhausted, famished, but keen to get going. We see that, when in Rome, you do things their way ... and have immediately adjusted. Now we don't expect to do much until after noon and we haven't been home either day before midnight.
We live here in this little quarter of the city which is a healthy walk to the sights. We have a lovely leisurely breakfast and plan our days. Yesterday, my pedometer registered over 7 kms on foot, over 10 000 steps. Add additional distance covered by bus and metro, and I bet we beat that today based on the planning. Tomorrow though we need to be at the Vatican at 9:15 so that might change things up just a little. I beat roomies this morning and was able to sneak off for a couple of cafe lattes in the lane nearby. Yesterday's first stop was for gelati ... the best in the world ... but it was closed at 11 am! Nothing much going on here until after noon!
So far we have travelled by local bus and metro (this is a huge accomplishment, we think) out to the Appian Way to see the Catacombs of San Callisto. They were cool ... I mean that literally ... which was nice, seeing as it is dripping hot. Magnify the notion of dripping when riding the metro during rush hour! Tourists exchange valuable tips ... we have acquired Roma Passes and been to San Paulo "outside the walls" and the Colosseo at nightfall. We have explored the Piazza Navona and dined there after buying local art in the square. We even had an accordion accompaniment, Sinatra's "my way," with our insalata caprese, our ravioli, and pasta with prawns and squash blossoms (which seemed to have disappeared in the mix). We limped home through throngs of younger night folk, managing to find a late night cafe/bakery to pick up pastries for this morning.
Can't say we've had time to miss Vancouver yet. We are sure you will understand. Chris, Joanne, and I think Rome is perfect. There is nothing that displeases us.